Seeds and
seedlings …Nursery Work for the time
poor.
Making
compost is hardly ever a chore for me , I get so turned on by the process of putting
together annoying and maybe stinky waste products to create something so
valuable they call it black gold.
However
one tedious chore for me is pricking out numerous little seedlings into pots to
grow on to a robust 3 or 4 inch high seedling. Perhaps it is because I know
that only half of them will survive…..rats, chickens, a 40 degree day . In fact
why do I bother at all? Well you have to , because lets Face Facts , you cant eat supermarket “food”, and purchased
mass produced seedlings are weak as
…very poor success rate with them and of course not at all kosher regards
organic certification.
Why don’t
you just plant seeds in the garden? Well
, at the magically precious but sadly
short times of Autumn and spring you can do just that, because its raining. In
winter slugs are a menace and seedlings grow so slowly often get smaller not
bigger. In summer however, You need to water the whole big garden every day ,
possibly 3 times a day, to get the seeds to germinate. I like to concentrate
all that time and energy into a small area called the nursery, where a plastic
house provides shade and humidity and many seedlings can be raised with a lot
less water spent.
Garden irrigation is
best done deeply and infrequently, otherwise you can end up with a depth
of only 50 ml wet and dry underneath.
This leads to shallow roots. Our gardens have finally developed marvellous soil
to a depth of 300 m or more , because it is rich in carbon it is a sponge like
material which absorbs and holds moisture well. I try to water it deeply only
once a week even in summer. This leads
to big deep root systems which will enable a plant to survive for many days
should something go wrong like a broken pump or a broken leg.
So , at
Merri Bee Organic Farm we have developed some ideas on nursery chores that work
for us in our extreme climate . We first build a hot house to keep soil and
plants from drying out. In winter, when it is theoreticaly raining it may simply be 4 walls with a door in one, open to
the sky and the rain somewhat like a large tree guard but for the long hot
summer a plastic and shade cloth house is required:
Level an
area big enough to enable 2 benches and a gangway down the middle, maybe a
third bench across the end opposite the door. One idea is to obtain 4 blue
drums from a recycling depot, the 200 litre types . Place them so that they
will hold up your working surface. We have been known to use old bedframes for
the benches and also old pallets, a discarded old dunny door, a simple bunch of planks.
What ever you use, it must be able to constant water applications and be fairly
level and even for your seed trays to sit on. A comfortable working height bench is essential.
For thermal
mass we fill
the drums with water which moderates the
temperatures inside the green house. Would be good to also create a high
thermal mass floor by first laying some insulation on the ground ( we used an
old doona wrapt in black plastic) over which you may lay some concrete slabs or
pebbles. A simple structure of big black polly pipe pushed onto star pickets in hoop formation , covered in UV stabilized
plastic ( whatever you do don’t waste vast sums on that reinforced with mesh
style plastic that comes on a roll in green and white at the hardware….it
doesn’t last long at all) will complete the structure. Weigh down the plastic
at the sides well by either burying it in a trench or putting heavy eights on
it…remember you could have just made a
big kite should it get windy!
To have
used old shade house frames we bought through the paper from peoples backyards
for $100.00. We slit poly pipe lengthwise and pushed it onto the frame to
secure the plastic around the door frame. Another idea we have patented ;) is to squash 12 ml trickle
pipe flat and tech screw it on to the frame, sandwhiching the plastic which is
pulled tight as you go. Of course my readers are ever so resourceful and will
overcome any challenges I am sure.
As you will be going in and out carrying
seedtrays and old breadbaskets full of
dirt and plants, a nice door is worth
constructing, especially if you are keeping critters like chooks out. Once
again Mitre 11 ( the tip) is handy for old flyscreen doors you can work with.
Last but
by no means least you need an irrigation set up on a timer. This is an absolute
must . You need fairly good water pressure. Don’t repeat our mistake of making
this wonderful hot house at the top of a hill where our water pressure is poor
so a timer cant be used. We built
another glass house down the hill just so the timer tap could be used. Best
$40.00 I ever spent was on the timer
tap. We set it to turn on a mister for one minute, 3 times in every 24 hour
period. Luxury for the forgetful, busy or just plain slack.
Have
ready a piece of shade cloth to cover the whole thing in summer. Take it off in
autumn, apply again in spring. Once again, weight it down appropriately.
Ok , you
have the 5 star plant accommodation sorted.
Now for the potting mix.
On a hard
surface mix the following together:
2 parts
Coco-peat (comes in a dried and pressed block)
1 part Course sand (washed)
1 part Compost
1 part Mushroom compost (if you can get it – ordinary compost if not – we use our home made which is not quite as soil like as the commercial stuff)
1 part Worm castings
1 part Course sand (washed)
1 part Compost
1 part Mushroom compost (if you can get it – ordinary compost if not – we use our home made which is not quite as soil like as the commercial stuff)
1 part Worm castings
I don’t
always have the coco peat and the mushroom compost and instead I use dirt from
chook pens.It usually has no weed seed in it .Very important point when planting onion seeds, believe me.
Once the seeds come up, while they are still tiny, dig them out with a bread and butter knife a few at a time, leaving as much dirt around them with as least disturbance as possible, and pot them into half toilet rolls filled with rich compost y soil. Pack the toilet rolls into some container which will hold them upright, and make sure the container has a few drainage holes. Water them in well soon after planting. A few weeks later when these seedlings are about 2 inches high, plant them into the garden still in their cardboard cylinder. This is normally a dicey procedure , especially in hot weather ( where upon evening is the best time to act) , but by planting the whole thing there is no transplant shock at all. If you leave them too long in these toilet rolls your healthy seedlings will run out of nutrient and start yellowing a bit.
Mulch the bed well, plant your plants
in holes dug in the mulch, water well and you should be harvesting something
soon. Best of luck .
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